Assetto Corsa

[marcy 60]

2 nove proge. Not bad. Mal da me povleče nazaj. 

Eastern Creek(zanimiva):

http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/index.php?threads/eastern-creek-v-0-5-available.8870/#post-124953

Top gear:

http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/index.php?threads/top-gear-test-track-v-0-5-2-available.8774/

[zamex23 1 242]

Zelo lepo razloženo kako nastavit avto

 

1. Spring Rates
Soft
+ Allows the car to react to bumps and track imperfections without losing traction
+ Generally, increases grip at all circumstances
- Requires a ride height tall enough to ensure that the car does not bottom out
Stiff
+ Minimises roll under weight transfer allowing a lower ride height to be used
- Can cause the car to skip or jump over bumps and imperfections resulting in a loss of traction

-> Front stiffer - increases understeer | Front softer - decreases understeer
-> Rear stiffer - increases overstreer | Rear softer - decreases oversteer​

2. Ride Height
Low
+ Reduces weight transfer under braking, acceleration and cornering. Allows stiffer springs.
+ Generally makes you faster 
(be advised of dive and squat of the front suspension)
- Increases risk of bottoming out the car
High
+ Ensures car does not bottom out over bumpy tracks. Allows softer springs.
- Increases weight transfer under braking, acceleration and cornering

-> Front high - increases understeer | Front low - decreases understeer
-> Rear high - increases oversteer | Rear low - decreases oversteer​

Notes: A level car at stand still reacts more naturally. Is the rear higher than the front, the car will be more prone to oversteer - vice versa for understeer. Seek a level and straight road for ride height setups. Remember to empty the fuel tank before tweeking.

3. Damper settings
High
+ Allows the suspension to react quickly to bumpy surfaces, retaining traction
- Speeds up transition to over-understeer
Low
+ Slows down transition to over-understeer
- Skips over bumpy surfaces as the suspension can't react quickly enough

-> Front stiff - increases understeer | Front soft - decreases understeer
-> Rear stiff - increases oversteer | Rear soft - decreases oversteer​

Notes: The rebound rate should always be two to three times higher than the bound rate. Keep the rebound rate therefore close to maximum. The first bound and rebound rate is a seperate thing, test it at high curbs, at Turn 12 on Nürburgring (fast right hander just before the cicane).

4. Camber settings
Front
+ Increases cornering grip up to the lateral grip threshold
- Reduces straight-line traction (only for FWD cars) and stability (for all)
- Increases braking distance and instability under braking
Rear
+ Increases cornering grip up to the lateral grip threshold
- Reduces straight line traction (exept for FWD cars) and stability (for all)
- increases braking distance and instability under braking

-> Front more - reduces understeer | Front less - increases understeer
-> Rear more - reduces oversteer | Rear less - increases oversteer​

Notes: Camber settings are great in tuning over-understeer after all of the obove options are exhausted (do Cambers last). Be carefull with increasing rear camber for endurance races - tire degradation will cause oversteer near the end of the race. Front camber has greater influence in braking distance and stability - even greater for more front brake bias. In general, start with low camber values and work your way through.

5. Toe settings
Don't mess with Toe.
More toe value away from zero will make you slower.

Front
Toe-In (negative values)
+ Increases grip on initial turn-in
- Reduces lateral grip mid corner
Toe-Out (positive)
+ don't bother
- Reduces grip on initial turn-in
+ May stabilise the car during lift-off and turn-in
Rear
Toe-In (negative)
+ don't bother
- Increases lift-off oversteer
- makes the car prone to snap-oversteer (different to lift-off oversteer), dangerous
Toe-Out (positive)
+ Increases stability under braking
- Increases turn resistance and understeer
- Makes you slower

Notes: Increasing Toe-Out (positive values) at the rear is a common and effective practice to increase stability under braking. Generally, the rear toe values have a much higher impact on handling than the front ones.

6. Anti-role bars
Naturally, role bars only come into effect during cornering.

Soft
+ The car may manage bumps well
+ Improves feel and complience of the car
- Can cause the car to bottom out during corner roll
- Soft role bars may require greater ride height or stiffer springs in order to work properly

Stiff
+ Reduced risk of bottom out of car during cornering
+ May allow for lower ride height
- May result in loss of traction
+/- Car feels dartier (reacts faster to steering input)

-> Front stiff - increases understeer | Front soft - decreases understeer
-> Rear stiff - increases oversteer | Rear soft - decreases oversteer​

Notes: Be gentle with Anti-role bars. Set them low first and work your way through.

7. Brake bias
Despite my critizism of the default setups in Assetto Corsa, the default values for the brake bias follow the natural driving characteristics of a particular car. The Z4 GT3 has great front brake bias, because of the long bonnet (sry US users: hood) and heavy front. Don't mess with them bias too much. After obove settings are done, shift the brake bias towards the rear (for balance, decreasing braking distance), one point at a time, until you experience instability under braking. After, apply one point bias to the front. You may apply more Toe-Out (postive) in order to increase braking stability, albeit sacrificing corner performance.

Now, after all that, AC has some proprietary car settings I have less experience with, for instance for total suspension travel (second to last setup page). It seems to give more grip on corner exit, of you lower this setting at the rear, however i can't write a comprehensive piece on that at this time.

Finally, it is important to alter only (symmetricly) one value at a time (drive one/two laps afterwards) - you will see and feel the changes right away and able to take action accordingly. More experienced users are able to change ten or more values at one go, because they know what settings fit their driving style and can judge the characteristics of a new car very quickly.

[JocoG23 416]

Še en pregleden vodič za vse začetnike in tiste malo bolj lene

 

[zamex23 1 242]

Joco ti ko znaš bol nastavlat avte..povej po kulk skačeš cifre ko testiraš setup. Se pomikaš za 1 pa nardiš 3 kroge pa vidiš, al nardiš drastičn preskok za 5 in potem znižuješ povečuješ?(To govorim za AC, ki ima slajderje za take stvari) Vem da pol ko že veliko setupov sestaviš že veš prbližno kulk so povprečne spremembe ampak me vseeno zanima kak se najhitrej pride do nečesa spodobnega.

[JocoG23 416]

Default seti so v AC kar ok za začetno točko.

 

Načeloma je prva stvar vsaj pr meni višina, krilca, trdota vzmeti in prestave k naštimaš za določeno progo k približno maš filing kaj naj bi bilo ok za karakteristiko proge. Monza npr. imaš malo aerodinamike, več trdote, mogoče nižji avto, ravno tolk da ne odbija od podna.... In pa mogoče daljšo 1. ali 2. prestavo za počasne šikane. Za bolj zavite proge, v glavnem manj je ravnin in krajše kot so - več aerodinamike. V kakem Mugellu k maš dolge hitre ovinke se da veliko pridobit če imaš visoka krilca ampak je spet ravnina dolga...tako da je kompromis vse skup in krogi, krogi

 

Ko maš to poštiman(wing-ride-springs-gears) probavaš več al pa manj camberja. Tukaj najprej skačem z ful veliko ali pa malo in kmalu vidiš da z več kolesnega kota imaš načeloma več gripa v ovinkih kar je dobro za hotlappanje, za dirkanje pa ne tolk ker je malo bolj nervozno vse skup in gume se bolj obremenijo. Manj kota je boljše tudi pri bremzanju in pospeševanju, to se pri enih avtih pozna bolj kot pri drugih.

 

Pritisk gum razen za serijske avte nimaš kaj velik pridobit. Za semislicks daš tm 24-28psi, street guma 30+. V glavnem v serijskih avtih(vsaj semislick) ko je guma na delovni temperaturi naj nebi presegala 35psi.

 

Razmerje pravo aerodinamike vidiš v hitrih ovinkih...če spreden konec vleče navznoter in te bi najraje obrnilo imaš preveč spredaj/premalo zadaj. V počasnih in srednje hitrih ovinkih pride do izraza camber in ARB, toe in/out je malenkost(načeloma več toe out spredaj=bolj nestabilno bremzanje ampak več grifa ko zaviješ v ovink). Z zadnjim toe-in(navadno pozitivno) se ne rabiš nekaj sekirat edino pri F40 baje pomaga če daš malo negativnega kar sem vidu pr setupu od enga aliena 

 

ARB je za osnovno balansiranje avtomobila. Najbolje da to štelaš potem ko maš neke osnovne nastavitve wing-ride-springs-gears(vsaj po moje). Če je kak ozek hairpin se da z veliko zadnjega ARB dost pridobit ker lahko bolje rotiraš avto ampak je spet problem v hitrejših ovinkih ker se avto zadaj premalo nagne in te odnese. Tako da smo spet pri kompromisu

 

Glede GT3 avtov za Mclarna imam že od prej kar dober set, bom delil

 

PS: Višinska razlika med sprednjim in zadnjim koncem(rake) je tako da v GT avtih ne rabi bit velika, vsaj ne v Mclarnu. Npr. 0.5cm višje zadaj je ok, mogoče celo manj da pride malo bolj do efekta zadnji difuzor. Ampak če je zaden konec prenizek spet ni ok. Tako da sam probavat hehe.

[zamex23 1 242]

O hvala ti Joco..tole so koristni nasveti. Drugače če maš kak dober za z4 gt3 lahk tut deliš, mam namen vozit z njim v prvenstvu

[JocoG23 416]

Ne vem za Z4 imam ampak za staro fiziko ker so ga ful spremenil februarja al kdaj z update-om.

 

Upam da dobim volan drug teden(včer poslal Zokidu za popravilo).

 

Na Racedepartment in RSR timing strani je tud kar nekaj dobrih setov.

[zamex23 1 242]

Zdle grem tak stestirat nove 4 proge Top gear že ima 0.6 verzijo.

[PEK 2 291]

Še en tool, ki bo sigurno pomagal pri setupu. 

 

Klik!

[DarkSide 9]

bom kar sem pisal... kaj pa kakšne proge? recimo slovenske rally proge bi ble super oz. te ki jih vozijo za slovensko državno

[silicijeva dolina 1 254]

bom kar sem pisal... kaj pa kakšne proge? recimo slovenske rally proge bi ble super oz. te ki jih vozijo za slovensko državno

 

Naloži kakšno pa bomo ziher z veseljem odfurali.

[DarkSide 9]

žal nisem tako vešč tega da bi jih naredil drugače bi že naredil

[silicijeva dolina 1 254]

Hotel sem povedati,da še nažalost ni nobene slovenske proge narejene. 

[skopusnik 1 374]

Čakamo da boy kupi laser in skenira slovenske GHD

[Tico 34]

Danes prvič probal AC.Fenomenalno!!!Ko imaš enkrat vse nastavljeno kot je treba se pelje noro dobro.Imam pa za vsak avto drugačne nastavitve ffb-ja tko da se vsi avti odlični.Pri vseh čutis vsak zdrs  gume vsako grbino.....NORO DOBRO